Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Japan Trip 2007 in Collage

我承認這樣做有點頹... 但若我要寫遊記的話,我也不知何日可完成。

Day 1: 香港 -- 東京 -- 伊東
Got upgraded to business class. Hurrraaaay! :)

Day 2: 伊東 + 伊豆高原

Day 3: 修善寺 + 河津 + 土肥
因為日本七月史上最強的颱風正橫掃日本,所以絕大部份時間我都是「包車」及「包場」,四周一人也沒有。雖然全身濕透(連雨傘都透水了),但我仍是繼續行程。只是河津及修善寺的山路較多(我原本打算行山的),因我穿的鞋鞋底已被磨蝕,在風雨中行石路及山路很容易失足(我可不想客死異鄉),所以只好放棄。

雖然橫風橫雨,但我到達土肥後,還是要到處走走才心息,不竟由香港老遠飛來,不想整天呆在旅館看電視、浸溫泉呢。民宿太太借我雨衣、一雙雨靴及一把大雨傘,但最後又是濕透回去。


Day 4: 土肥 -- 箱根
差點因颱風襲日而滯留土肥,幸好最後還是平安到達箱根(只是花了不少時間在交通上)。

Day 5: 箱根



小王子博物館





 玻璃之森



彫刻之森美術館




盧之湖


Day 6: 御殿場 + 河口湖

Day 7: 河口湖

最開心的是「包場」摘藍莓,果園伯伯還教我如何選擇成熟的果實。因為太高興只顧著吃,所以離開時膠盒中只放了數粒藍莓。婆婆見我只有那少得可憐的果實,竟然送我一大盒藍莓 :)

回酒店時我將那盒藍莓送了酒店的司機(這兩天辛苦了),他可樂透了。Pay it forward, 快樂其實可以簡單地傳開去。翌日他送我一件 T-shirt 作為答謝,還說藍莓很美味呢。



Day 8: 富士山 -- 東京
因為遲起步及裝備不足(我的運動鞋實在太不濟),最後只是到了七合目便下山去。雖然獨自一人上山,但沿途不停有人跟我說 Ohayou 及 Gabatte,感覺並不孤單。:)





Day 9: Tokyo Disneyland
約了到日本旅遊的同事一起到 Disneyland。這可是我第一次到 Disneyland 呢。
(相片後補)

Day 10: 輕井澤
輕井澤有不少教堂,帶點歐陸色彩,也有不少人帶狗散步,感覺蠻悠閒。但這幾天看太多山水及樹木,所以對輕井澤印象只是一般。



Day 11: 日光
我還是較喜歡日光。單是二社一寺已經令我大開眼界。


Day 12: 東京 -- 香港

*  *  *  *  *  *  *

相信在可見的將來不會再到日本了。除非...

Ocean Park + Magebox

It's been three years since I last visited Ocean Park. Except that it's more crowded with youngsters (well, it's still their summer holiday) and Mainland travelers, it's more or less the same. My targets this time were jelly fish, Yin-yin and Le-le the giant pandas and my personal favourite Aquarium.


After that, my friend and I went to Megabox. Well... a boring place indeed.

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Sunday, August 05, 2007

Tasting the new, ancient and typical China—through Shanghai and Hangzhou (Part 2)

Chapter 2: the people

At first glance, Shanghai looks glamorous. Fancy glassy skyscrapers mushroom everywhere, ubiquitous foreign fast food chains and Starbucks make you feel like home (as long as you are from city), Pudong Airport Maglev (which can travel at 431km/h in normal operation and could reach 501km/h in a test) takes only 7 minutes and 20 seconds to finish the whole 30.5km track connecting the airport and the peripheral area of Shanghai, which is about 10 minutes faster than taking a bus and 5 minutes than a cab.

While the infrastructure and economic development leave any new comers breathless, the social development does not seem to catch up. Like Eliza Doolittle with a strong Cockney accent and vulgar attitudes in My Fair Lady; no matter how well she dressed or jeweled herself, she's still that uncivilized girl once she speaks.

It isn't a norm for others to say 'excuse me' before they knock you out of their way; nor is it usual to follow traffic lights. On the first day, I saw a man in rather formal dressing piss next to the crowded Wei Tan. Thanks to the massive civic education campaign, people are now learning to line up at bus stop; but at the ticket office at Shanghai train station, the situation is still chaotic. People keep jumping the line or pushing you out of the queue. Luckily my tripmate and I were vigilant and didn't give anybody a chance to cut in.

At some point of my journey, I was really fed up with complaining and wondered if I had been using my hometown standard to judge this city.

I couldn't help but contemplate: in ancient China, we claimed ourselves the country of courtesy and despised those who had no manners. Now, nobody will disagree that Japan is the real country of courtesy. What happened to China in the past centuries? How much can we nurse the scar of Cultural Revolution? How can we set people's soul free from the suppressed fear of the century long poverty and deprivation?


(This is an ad. from a fast food shop. Age-ists!)


Chapter 3: the government

With such high population mobility, Shanghai is stumbling on the path to a more civilized society. However, when compared with the HKSAR government, the Shanghai government is stronger and more practical. She knows the weaknesses of the city and is willing to step up efforts to change that.

The government seizes every single chance to numb your nerves with different slogans. Mottos like 'be civilized, be a lovely Shanghai citizen' can be seen and heard everywhere. There are traffic controllers at main roads so as to enforce the traffic rules (at first I was too naïve to wonder why there was a traffic controller while traffic lights were doing his job at the same time) and traffic ambassadors holding little flags which read 'be a civilized driver, observe the traffic rules' alongside the road.



(The traffic controller looks cool!)

Apart from the slogan thing, they actually ban people from promoting sales in major streets and train stations which is a big difference from other Mainland cities. Take the photo-taking booths at Wei Tan as an example. The government would cancel their license if they walk out of their booths and disturb visitors with their sales promotion.

Roads and streets are clearly labeled; even for direction dummies like me, it is still easy to navigate the city.

The most important thing is, the government does a great job on heritage preservation. Not only are centuries old trees and buildings labeled as heritage treasures, younger buildings with important historical background are also under the protection of the government. Like the former residence of Lu Xun (who spent the last 3 years of his life there), it has become an important heritage a few years after his death. After all, you can sense a soul in this city—through history.

Our crave for more and more land has already made us lose our minds. The government keeps reclaiming Victoria Harbour—the most valuable resource we're once proud of, abolishing old—but not old enough—buildings, logging more and more big trees in urban area.

When I look at our own city—all those mindless developments, I don't know where we're heading to. Without history, we're nothing.

One thing I'm glad about my trip is that, most teenagers we met were energetic and civilized. I can see the New China through them.

Saturday, August 04, 2007

Tasting the new, ancient and typical China—through Shanghai and Hangzhou (Part 1)

To be frank, I seldom travel to Mainland China except visiting my relatives there occasionally. This is my first trip to explore the place with my friend by ourselves and it turns out to be an eye-opener for us.

To me, traveling is more than sight-seeing and cuisine-eating. It is also about exploring history and experiencing local life. The best way to do so is to take the public transport and take a stroll in local stores or supermarkets.

Chapter 1: public transport

Metro—my first cultural shock
My first metro experience in Shanghai has actually freaked me out.

Just a few days before I landed in Shanghai, a man was crushed to death in Shanghai metro after being sandwiched in between the train door and the glass shield alongside the platform. How the gap between the two doors could accommodate an adult and why the driver couldn't sense anything unusual are beyond normal human intelligence to understand. But somehow I was under the impression that accidents like this happened quite often as it re-ran itself in front of me on my very first metro ride.

I was surveying the train compartment when I heard a sharp beeping sound, indicating that the train door was about to shut. Suddenly a man holding a little boy sprinted to the train and was caught by the train door (it won't swing open automatically when it fails to shut). My tripmate and I gawped in mute horror while others roared for help and tried to widen the door to rescue the man. Luckily, the man was safe in the end.

Every time I stepped in the metro station, I felt like entering the war zone and got myself into the fight-and-flight mode. It is common to find people emit a loud sneeze just next to you without covering their mouths and to spot patches of fresh spit in concourse area.

Despite repeated announcements reminding people to queue to board and to let passengers alight first, swarms of people just hurtled in and out—at the same time. So whenever the train pulled into the station, just before the moment the doors which separated the two camps on each side of the platform gap swung open, our eyes locked and both camps were ready to brave the crowds to get in or out of the train.

When the night falls, the metro would become a marketplace. Beggars, young and old, would wander in the compartment asking for money. I have actually witnessed a trio of sisters begging on train for two consecutive nights. People seemed to have got used to it and just give the beggars a cold shoulder. Sometimes people would sell newspapers and hurl leaflets at you whether you want it or not. And if you are lucky enough (or if you travel much enough), you may even catch some public musical performance on train.

What seemed to be a scary place to me at the beginning looked somehow freaky-funny toward the end of the trip as anything could happen there. Somehow, every metro ride is a surprise and you would never know what lies ahead.

Bus—something you shouldn't miss
Riding a bus in Hangzhou especially during rush hour is a kind of physical training. For one thing you have to act fast and be nimble as people will push forward once the bus arrived. Forget about queuing; it's dummy logic.

If you can board a bus successfully, you have to position and balance yourself well given very limited space while people keep squeezing in and struggling out of the bus.

Your physical training doesn't stop here because you still have to get off at the right stop. In fact, buses in big cities are quite modern and there's announcement telling you the next stop; so you don't have to worry about missing your stop. What's challenging is, you have to bustle through the crowds to get to the alighting door.

After studying at CUHK for several years (where I still find riding a school bus during rush hour adventurous), I could successfully accomplish this task.

Both my tripmate and I agree that it's an adventure (that's why we're happy taking photos) but when it comes to daily routine it would be a torture.



Cross-city Train—safe, efficient and clean
Contrary to my old impression, the train connecting Shanghai and Hangzhou was well-illuminated, sapcious, very clean and safe. There were police/ security officers patrolling from time to time reminding people to take care of their own belongings.

I remember that I was taking a nap on my way back to Shanghai when a security officer patrolled by, at the same time shouting: 'keep an eye on your personal belongings even when you're sleeping.' I was then awake and couldn't fall asleep again.

Taxi—economic and reliable
We have taken a few taxi rides and luckily all the drivers we met were honest and efficient.

Traffic lights
Sometimes I wondered if I was colour-blind (that the sparkling little green man on the traffic light was actually red) or I was looking at the wrong traffic light (that the sparkling little green man is not for pedestrians but for drivers; so where's the real traffic light for pedestrians?).

I actually risked my life to cross busy roads but miraclously I could always dash through the racing cars without getting hurt.

(to be continued)